Molly and Meherwan Irani of Chai Pani share the secrets of their authentically green crowd-pleaser. Makes enough for a large family, with some left over (also great for a potluck dish).
Paneer
Ingredients:
1 gallon whole milk
1 pint half-and-half
1 quart whole yogurt
1 tsp of salt
Method:
To make fresh paneer at home, bring 1 gallon of whole milk and a pint of half-and-half to a boil. When the milk starts to rise, turn flame down and add 1 teaspoon of salt and one quart of whole yogurt and stir gently until the curds start to separate. The curds will clump together and a greenish-clear liquid (whey) will be left behind. If the curds don't separate, you can add lemon juice (bottled is fine) a squirt or so at a time until the separation starts.
Mama Joan's Bread Stew
Chef Anthony Cerrato of Fiore’s shares his mother’s fall favorite
Ingredients:
2 lbs local Swiss chard and kale, washed, de-stemmed and rough-chopped
32 oz cannellini beans, strained
8 whole peeled garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2.5 quarts vegetable or chicken stock
6 oz olive oil
16 oz whole peeled plum tomatoes, rough chopped in juice
1 lb cauliflower florets
10 oz sweet white onion, julienne
1 oz fresh basil, chiffonade
1 tsp dried oregano
Day-old crusty Italian bread, cut into cubes
Sea salt and crushed black pepper
Fresh-grated Pecorino Romano cheese.
Method:
Use a 6-quart stock pot. Cook onions and garlic on medium heat until translucent. Add cauliflower, kale and chard. Cook until greens are slightly withered and bright green in color. Add plum tomatoes with their juice and cannellini beans (note: add some stock to greens if onion and garlic begin to brown). Add fresh basil and dried oregano, then simmer 10-12 minutes and add sea salt and fresh cracked pepper to taste. Place 6-8 cubes of bread in bowl, pour 14 ounces of soup over bread and top with fresh grated cheese — just like my mama did!
Strain the curds through a cheese cloth or a very fine strainer (a chinois is best). Once strained, form into a round mound, place on a plate, put another plate on top and place a heavy weight on top to further press the water out. The cheese will form into a firm wheel and can be sliced, cubed, etc.
Saag (spinach):
Ingredients:
5 lbs local spinach
1/2 cup oil
1 tbsp black mustard seeds
2 tbsp cumin powder
2 tbsp cumin seeds
1 tbsp fenugreek
2 tbsp diced serranos
3 tbsp ginger, finely diced
3 tbsp garlic, finely diced
6 cups white onions, diced small
1 cup fresh cilantro, chopped
2 tbsp turmeric powder
2 tbsp coriander powder
1/2 tbsp cayenne
3 cups tomatoes, finely diced
1 pint half-and-half
Salt to taste
Method:
Blanch 5 pounds of leafy green spinach and set aside. In a large sautée pan, heat oil and add black mustard seeds. When the mustard seeds start to pop, add cumin seed and fenugreek. Stir for a minute and add diced serranos, ginger and garlic. After another minute, add onions and a pinch of salt to help them sweat faster. Cook on medium-high until the onions are fully caramelized. Stir frequently while cooking to make sure they don't burn. Completely browning the onions is a very important aspect of Indian cooking and where a lot of the flavor comes from.
Add cilantro and stir for a minute until it starts to darken. Add turmeric powder, cumin powder, coriander powder, cayenne and stir for a minute on medium until the spices darken. You can add a 1/4 cup of water to deglaze if the spices are sticking or clumping. Add fresh tomatoes (or 2 cups of crushed canned tomatoes). Cook until glossy and the oil starts to separate at the edges of the pan.
Add the blanched (and well-strained) spinach and stir for 6-7 minutes until dark. Add 4 cups of water, stir well. Bring to a simmer. Add half and half and simmer for another 5 minutes. Add cubed paneer, salt to taste (usually a tablespoon or so) and simmer (don't cover the pan) for 5 more minutes. Serve with rice or flat bread. The exact same recipe can also be used with mustard greens if you're looking for greens with more bite!
Note: All of the spices (fenugreek seeds are the most difficult to find) can be purchased in the spice aisle of most grocery stores. You can also purchased pre-made paneer. Meherwan says that Foreign Affairs on Tunnel Road stocks all Indian spices, as well as the farmstead cheese.